An excellent interview here with Ewen Mackintosh by Whisky Magazine editor Bethany Whymark, explaining Gordon & MacPhail's shocking announcement.
Though I understand entirely why the business has made the decision to cease buying new fillings of spirit and wind down its independent bottling — and the reasons are good — I felt genuinely emotional when the news was shared with me at a dinner in London back in June. It's hard to put into words the role that G&M has played in the industry. Whether it's creating 'official' bottlings for single malts that were usually destined for blending via its Distillery Labels series, setting a high bar for quality via its Connoisseur's Choice range, or capturing the world's attention by releasing the oldest Scotch whiskies ever bottled, the company has always stood out from the crowd. (My article from back in 2017 tells the full story: https://lnkd.in/eKGTZrdv)
In fact, G&M's stocks are so broad and deep that the company has come to act as something of an unofficial archive of the entire Scotch whisky industry — and the importance of this role can't be understated. Due to the industry's historic focus on mass-market sales and blending, many distillers lack a portfolio of aged and rare stocks from their own distilleries, and the word is that many have had to approach G&M in recent years, cap in hand, to buy back whiskies in order to create their own official prestige offerings.
Though G&M's stocks will allow it to continue bottling older and older whiskies for most of the next century, this announcement still feels a little bit like we've been told a rare flower or animal is now certain to go extinct, as the environment it depended on no longer exists. Indeed, this is exactly what's happened: new spirit fillings prices are going through the roof (some say up as much as 300-400%) and many larger producers are restricting or ending historic supply agreements while making it harder for new customers to get on the books. G&M is by no means the only independent bottler-turned-distiller to see generations-long fillings agreements, often negotiated with a handshake rather than a contract, come up for 'renegotiation' or be pulled entirely.
Things are even harder for newer, less well-established bottlers, which are now all competing for the same restricted number of casks on the secondary market, as pressure on both new fillings and mature stock increases as the 'big two' restrict supply. And, with sales projections looking so good, it's also hard to lump too much blame on distillers.
Thankfully, there's still lots to come from G&M. By winding down its releases of younger whiskies, I'm sure stocks reserved for high-age expressions will continue to impress. What's more, if its Benromach Distillery gives any indication, the company's new site, The Cairn, will have plenty to excite whisky fans too.